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Hello DB
How are you?
Thanks again for the post.
I have a rule…I put the “cleaning agent” in the machine first.
That’s it.
So…if you have a machine that has water in it…from when you cleaned out the latex paint…
First…clean out the water with…( in this case… ) Xylene. ( Because you are preparing to install Acetone. )
Then…when the Xylene is in the machine…then put the Acetone in it.
AND…vice versa…when you want to go back to latex…push the Xylene out with water…THEN…put the latex in.
I hope that makes sense.
Another way to say that is…I don’t mind if the cleaning agents touch each other…but…I am not a fan of the paint touching the wrong cleaning agent…just in case there’s a semi reaction…and that turns into silly string…or bubble gum…or goo…!
Next…the first time I did this…I put the Xylene in the machine…and let it sit for maybe 20 minutes. Then I pushed it out with more. Some little deposits flew out…no big deal.
Then I put the paint in. I did the job. Cleaned it out again with Xylene…all is well.
Then…I started not cleaning my machine. The Xylene is costly…AND…you cannot just easily dispose of Xylene.
And again…all is well. Yes, paint is in my machine for days…even a week. Yes, I have jobs…but…sometimes the stencil manufacturing takes over and I am a weekend warrior…when it comes to striping. And again…I do not clean my machine.
Next…I also reuse the Xylene. When that bucket sits…the paint settles.
Last…I know there’s a “Good, Better, Best” scenario. But, I’ve had no troubles. I’ve used the same Xylene for a long time. My machine is ready to go…blahblah.
And…”not cleaning” is a habit when I was striping two jobs per day.
( I also know there are crews…within my town…good guys…who never clean either. And…that’s because their work load is much more full than mine…= who has time to clean…?
How’s that for some info…?
Bottom line…switch over to Acetone. You’ll lengthen your season on both ends: into the Fall and also in the earlier Spring.
( AND…you’ll sneak in a few jobs when rain is eminent…knowing the paint will be bone dry…quickly. )
DB…let me know how it all goes. Have confidence.
Your friend.
DanHello DB
How are you?
Friend…I switched to Acetone (2) months ago.
I was early…and…I don’t spray over seal. i just don’t have that clientele.
Anyhow…that said…I would switch. you can return the latex…keep it for a sunny day…blahblah…
How’s that?
DanHello Friend
First…thanks for the post.
Next…while I haven’t used the Graco Thermolazer…I cannot believe that the block wouldn’t work.
First…I always used the block form. It comes in a slab. And…the inside of the box is lined. Therefore…when you are done…and wish to drain the “walk behind”…you open the same box…flatten it out…under the “spigot”…and open the control. The hot thermo will obviously come out…but, onto the lined box. Let it cool…you’re good to go.
Next…before we even opened the box…we hit it just about everywhere with a hammer. Now open the box…and…either hand load the small pieces…( which again…I would bet…easily fit into the top of the Graco ) …or…slide them in.
Next…I hope that helps some.
Next…I also think that the pellets or granules are a bit easier to work with…?…in bags…? I really don’t know. Bottom line here…may be (2) things:
1) Some jobs used to call for an Alkyd based Thermo…while others called for Hydrocarbon.
Therefore maybe…maybe…both are available in both types = Both come in bags or boxes.
Next…the actual supplier may simply only have one form = Granules and in bags…blahblah.
2) You may just have a preference.
Last…let me attach a link. It’s to Swarco. Read through some of that. There may be info you already know…maybe a hint or two you don’t. I hope it helps some.
Let me know if I helped.
Friend, thanks again.
( Here’s that link. )
Dan
file:///C:/Users/Dan/Downloads/Thermo Field Guide.pdfHello DB…how are you?
First…thanks for the post.
Next…you just covered it all. ( No pun intended. )
Or…I can say…yes…you’re right…concerning all you said.
Bottom Line…there’s more than one way to skin a cat. AND…different jobs can be stenciled differently.
Therefore…no one way.
I’ve sold (10) HC stencils to two different users. One had 168 HC on the same job. The other had hundreds to spray.
Next…I have customers who order sets and sets of 12″ Numbers. I have others who order the Doubles…and also Triples. All of it stems from dripping…wiping down…etc. ( And it’s a time saver. )
Next…we’ve all wiped off in the grass. I’ve even started…”down on that end”…so when the stencil got drippy…I would end up by the lawn…behind a tree.
I’ve also had a job that had 20 HC. IT was only a 60 car lot…! It was for a gym for heart patients. BUT…that Sunday was so hot…I sprayed a few…sprayed the gores…sprayed some lines…”repeat process”…and got done.
Again…no two jobs are exactly alike.
DB…you aren’t doing anything wrong. Just pick your weapon.
Oh…I have a job that has 90 VISITOR stencils…( that picture is on my FaceBook …) SO…I cut (2) additional VISITOR stencils BUT…from the 60 Mil = thin plastic to use along with my 125 Mil VISITOR stencil.
( You can buy additional stencils…but choose if you want thick or thin material…as “extras”. )
Last…I have a product I call “The Stencil Scraper”… that I use. It’s in prototype.
Hang in there. Pick your weapons. It’s just the job.
And…congrats on the work.
Did I help? I hope so. Let me know.
DanHello DB…I know you’re not.
( But you write so well…! )
Here’s my question…are you related, though, to DB “Cooper”…?…!( I was going to ask; How was that first step off the plane…got any cash left…?..! )
Naaa…
See ya..!
DanHello DB…how are you?
First…this was well written.
And…to the point…If I can get together with RAE, I’d be a distributor.
I’d at least try it.
What you said about the solids sounds good.
Pass my name on.
Columbus, OH.
And…thanks.
P.S. Did you insinuate they had Acetone?
DanHello Brad
How are you?
And…congrats on the work. Buying a machine to keep up is great news.
It’s not just a sign of the economy…it reflects upon you too.
Congrats again.
Brad…I don’t think you can go wrong on any of this.
The 3400 is great. It can do anything.
The 3900 is what I have. It can obviously do anything.
Next…let me throw a wrench into the system…do you have a Rider?
Do not underestimate the time saving you will experience.
Next…the 3400 cannot accept a Rider.
The Graco 130 can. Take a look at that. It’s a bit over priced…and new…but its out there.
Next…the Titan 2850 can accept a Rider. That frame is able to hold the Ball Hitch.
Bottom line…if you can take the plunge…maybe a Rider…hook that to your existing 3900…and then also buy the 3400…for the helper…who will walk…or the Titan 2850…just so you can have the option of hooking up a Rider to it.
Next…I have a buddy who has the Rider and a 2850. If you want…I can introduce you to him.
Next…I only tape the 24″ dimension of the Stop Bars. I stripe the 12′ dimension. ( I use the tape to assure I have a nice crisp edge there. ) I make sure the far “right” stripe is clean and pretty…and the far Left stripe. The “middle …I just go! Then… I pull the 24” tape and have a crisp starting point…every time.
Next…I don’t tape off the Blue Block. There’s a video on my site showing how I do that. I think its 8 or 9 dollars…? I do trace around my stencil…making a 47″ x 47″ block. I slide that HC aside and hand roll.
Last…as far a Speed Bumps go…I don’t “paint” those. If you mean…solid yellow…don’t do that.
My buddy…here in town was sued because traffic paint is not supposed to be used on broad areas. Yes, he won in court…but had to take “Safety Classes”.
Next…I stripe a 4″ line to border the SB. I’ve also just “painted” the tips…and middle.
OR…paint a border and maybe a line in the middle to offer two lanes.
Be careful on broad sweeping areas.
Last…there’s more than one way to skin a cat. One friend uses a small Titan 850 only for Blue. Another has a “Picture Frame” stencil. As for me…?…I just refuse to put Blue in my gun for a couple HCs. Again…you choose what you like…move on.
And…again…congrats…all this sounds like you’re doing well. Good work. People are hiring you. All good things.
Did I help?
DanHey Rob…you know what…?…buy that one.
It looks like a scaled down HS200.
It also looks like the price is out there.
( there is one on eBay… )
I have a buddy who’s a Dealer.
Email me. I’ll introduce. …if you want…
…or call me…etc.
Rob, congrats on the work. Congrats on the upcoming machine…everything.
Very cool.
DanP.S. I don’t own a 4″ tip.
I always use a 6″ tip. I’ve offered to them to include a 1708, a 1908…but also; a 1912.
If you have a 4″ line…at a 12″ height…you are way up there…!
With a 6″ tip…you can lower the gun…alleviate much of the wind and wiggle…and…
If you ever Re Stripe a 4.75″ line…!…you can always lift the gun to produce a safe 5″ line.
( With the 4″ limitations…you are out of luck. )
That said…this won’t help that “quitting pump trouble”…but, you mentioned pulsating, hour glassing.
A bigger orifice; .019 may help. ( Especially if you are using Sherwin Williams Hot Line. )
( I use a .021″. But, I ride and move a little more quickly. )
Last…and…do not be afraid, to add a splash of water either.
Again…keep in touch.
I’ll have a Glass Bead Dispenser for those machines, soon.
DanHello Rob
How are you?
First…I did read you were having some snags with the 2850.
I agree with some and wonder about the others.
First…I…and many stripers never clean their machines. I read where you borrowed and didn’t clean…no troubles.
And…that won’t stop the pump. Your trouble sounds like that switch…that would’ve been my first try…and then…the ball getting stuck. Besides that…I really don’t think the suggestion that you put it together wrong is valid.
Whenever my pump is pumping but there isn’t pressure…it’s the ball. But…you’rs is clean…I am not sure beyond that.
All that said…I have a Graco 3900. I think they are over priced…but, it works. And…I’ve used the crap out of it…and I don’t clean it either. Next…the price point is the same as Titan’s Hydraulic. ( The 3900 is mechanical. )
But…the Titan 4950 literally wobbles. Three customers were told…drill the handle bars and put a screw in it.
Next…the difference between the Mechanical and Hydraulic is pumping. The M pumps 5 times more…?…than the H.
In other words…it’s like a 6 cylinder vs. an 8. You’d think they’d wear out. The stroke is shorter too.
( This is why I think they are over priced. ) You’re paying for an 8 cylinder when getting a 4…!
Bottom line though…it may save you a few hundred bucks from buying the Titan 4950.
It will save you a ton from buying the HS200…which is a heavy machine.
( I’ve been using both the 3900 and the HS200 recently. )
( AND…I do have the opportunity to buy a Titan 4950 kinda cheap…! )
Rob…keep the 2850.
Look into the Lemon Law.
Don’t quit pursuing the warranty. I know there’s a stipulation about trading in and / or upgrading…if you are simply not happy.
I don’t know the time limits though.
Keep in touch.
DanHello Brad
First…thanks for this. And…you’re right. Sometimes the paint doesn’t cooperate.
That said…it’s not you.
Next…I don’t think the paint has any different amount of solids. I believe it has 67%.
But, sometimes it needs water. I’m not sure of the molecules…science…etc,
BUT…sometimes it needs water.
If the paint does not “break up”…into a fan…add a cup or so of water. Circulate that.
Try striping again. If it helps…you are done. If not…add another cup or so. Circulate again…stripe again.
I’ll bet that will do it.
Next…I don’t consider this as “thinning” the paint.
Sometimes…paint does not want to “let go of itself”. And…adding a cup or a “splash” of water will allow that.
Next…that said…try a test shot after you add that “splash”. God forbid you head out to the job and end up spraying an 8″ line…!
Last…again…it’s not you.
And…try not to raise the gun too much. It’s always best to spray from a lower position. That way…wind is out of the equation…and you can see better. In other words…the higher the gun…the slightly harder it is to hit the “start” and “stop”.
Brads…how’s all that?
Let me know.
DanHello DB
I had to work on mine. But it was my fault. It was a simple cable break and I didn’t care at the time. I just need to get done. That said…are you meaning the small pin that interlocks with the sprocket like feature just comes out…?…and then …much to your surprise…your front tire is now on “swivel”…?
If so…is the pin that interlocks too short…?…or is the spring that holds it in tightly, too weak?
My only thought is that my 5 or 6 year old 3900 has “certain parts” on it…but…your “couple year old” 3900 may have different parts on it…to save the MFG cash in production.
The only way to check would be to see a pin on a parts list…or see if the current pin is all the way engaged into the “cutout” on the sprocket like feature. If it’s not bottoming out…it may be the pin length, mating sprocket cutout or the wrong spring to push it hard into the cutout and also hold it there.
Let me know. I hope those suggestions are simple to check and / or cheaper and easier to fix.
Again…let me know…good luck.
Last…when I finally replaced my cable, It seemed I had to adjust it. I wonder if the cable is tight and won’t let the pin “bottom out” into the sprocket.
( Although…that phenomenon happening on two machines seems unlikely. )
I’d check the spring to see if it’s too short or weak. I would imagine it should not be loose or ineffective when the pin is engaged. It should still have length and holding power.
( I hope that makes sense. )
Maybe…they changed the pin length and did not see this coming.
( But, that means a nationwide complaint too. )
Maybe the female sprocket cutout is partially blocked…?…that seems unlikely on two machines too.
I’d still check those things first.
I hope I helped.
DanHello Lee
I hate to say this…but…no.
That said…I’m not exactly sure what I’m looking at…and…the picture also includes a glimpse of another machine.
That machine in the background is a striper…not this one.
Next…as a striper…who has assembled and fixed many…on the job…I’d still say no. And…for a start up person…no.
I hate to say this too…but…you may very well be better off buying new…or find the proverbial “Corvette in Grandma’s Garage”.
If you stumble across a machine that’s been used twice…and can be shown to you…stripe a line…etc…that’s it.
OR…find a rental company who has one…rent it…or ask to buy it. Things like that.
Next…if they ever show up on eBay or CL…they do not last long…they’re sold quickly.
That however is a testimony to the industry.
Bottom line…you’ll be nervous enough on your first few jobs…you do not want a “Frankenstein” machine…or a boat anchor.
I know it’s tough to pull the trigger on NEW…therefore…bide your time.
Search out the other “tools”…price them out…collect…build Mr. Box…etc.
Call SW and ask if they have any cancelled orders. Call an equipment shop to see if they have a rebuilt machine that no one has claimed.
Something will occur. OR…buy a new one online. They all come from MN. The only time you’ll be hit with Sales Tax is if you’re in the same state. And…shipping is always free.
Buy the Titan 2850 or the Graco 3400. I’ll send you to a good guy.
Last…obviously…buy airless.
Again…pass on this…line up a job or two…collect other tools…keep your eyes open.
And…if you line up a church that’ll pay 700.00…weigh that into the selling price of the new one…vs. a used thing without a job being lined up.
You’ll do fine…plenty of time.
I hope that helps some.
DanHello Lee
Let me say a couple things…
1) When I started, I had a very heavy Conventional Machine. That said…those weigh 270 pounds, empty.
I worked out of a van. I just don’t think any kind of suspension work is ever needed.
Also…if necessary…I’d look into a hitch and a small, open trailer. I borrowed a buddy’s.
2) As far as spraying curbs…I’m thinking no. These are sold as Turf Sprayers. The ad shows grass Soccer and Football fields. Also…there isn’t a “Gun”. That means you cannot spray stencils either.
It looks like there’s a spray nozzle attached / screwed / bolted into the 4″ cover.
That said…I do see they sell “Attachments”. One is a spray gun spraying a stencil. Therefore…you can use that to spray curbs…by hand. It doesn’t look like there’s a way to spray curbs from the machine…like an airless can.
Check me on this. The MFG will certainly know more.It might be that the Attachments are only for certain models.
As far as the budget goes…It’s not so much a question as to; “what is best”…it’s more a question of; “tell me what not to buy”.
It’s my opinion that anything below an airless is open to the buyer. I wouldn’t buy a paint roller machine. They just don’t work on lots.
Next…if you pay 3400.00 for a Titan 2850 or a Graco 3400…here’s what to think…
If you stripe 5 jobs at 150.00…that’s 750.00. If you then sell the machine…you can probably sell it to almost any striper …in your town. You’ll get a little more that half; 1750.00…?…2000.00…?
You’ve lost 900.00.
If you stripe 5 jobs and make 1000.00…and sell…you’re down… 650.00.
Here’s more…if you buy something other than an airless…and then try to sell it in a year or two…as a striper…I wouldn’t buy it. But…you may not be out any cash. Maybe you made 600.00 or 700.00…in the meantime.
Lee…it’s now up to you.
As I’ve said…I’m open to almost anything…just to get started.
Here’s what I’d do next…
1) See if Sherwin Williams will front you the cash. Pay them per month.
2) Before that…see if you can line up a few jobs. Try your local places…self standing buildings where the owner is inside. Try a small burger joint, church, coffee shop, barber shop…etc.
If you line up a few jobs…and if SW will front some of the cash…maybe you’re on your way.
I hope that helps some.
Let me know.
Dan
