Home › Forums › Pavement Striping Materials › Road Striping
- This topic has 5 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 10 years, 1 month ago by Girish C. Dubey, President STAR, INC..
June 29, 2012 at 6:59 am #5630AnonymousInactive
We have been doing parking lot striping for 7 years. We are looking into getting into street striping. We were given a map by the city with roads highlighted that they want re-striped. I am trying to figure out what the best way to add them up is to give them a bid? Once I have that figured out should I bid it by linear feet or gallons? I don’t want to have to use a wheel because its over 20 miles of road any ideas?June 29, 2012 at 7:18 pm #6469AnonymousInactive
Road striping is a bit of a different animal than parking lot striping. In some ways it is easier, like the fact that it usually requires no layout and it requires very little detail work and is mostly long line. But in some ways it is more difficult, like that you will need to add reflective media (glass beads) and insure you follow the city, state and federal specifications and the very important MOT (maintenance of traffic).
I personally have been in the maintenance and marking industry for about 21 years, first as a road striper in south Florida. I would be glad to assist you in anyway I can from this experience.
Quick answers to your questions.
Measuring the job… A wheel can work but you need a quality one that can handle the speeds. There is also FastMeasure which I have never used but hear very good things about. But in my experience I have found that the city usually has the prints of the roads with marking details. You can also use Google Maps, IPave, or a new Android App I have found called Planimeter ($1.99) to measure lines and count detail items like arrows and messages.
Pricing the job… I have never priced such a job by the gallon. Most agencies like it priced “lump-sum in place”. Meaning one price for all the work. The best for you is to break out the job by the item (6″lane line, Arrows, Messages, 24″ stop bar etc) put the estimated quantities and the price per unit. Then note that this calculation is an estimate and the numbers may increase or decrease. This way if you are in the middle of the job and the engineer wants you to add in the side street you can do so and get paid for it. If you have to do a hard Lump-Sum you need to insure that you put exactly the area and items you are going to mark. I have seen several lose their butt by not doing so. The agency is not usually trying to screw you but it is easy to have a misunderstanding. Oh and don’t forget the cost of the beads!
Well I could go on but this is the experience gained wisdom and knowledge I can share. You are welcome to call our office at 888-717-7771. You can speak to a number of people like Monika, Steve, Josh, Brian or myself.
Good luck!July 3, 2012 at 8:30 pm #6470
How are you?
Let’s talk “Temporary Striping”, first.
I love road striping. I have a 3 pump Road Lazer. I also use a Line Lazer behind a little Graco 3900. ( That’s like one of those Jet Skiis…!) Be careful.
I’m always inside a Zone…or moving so quickly…I don’t need one. I’ll have a truck follow me…etc.
There aren’t any cars. I know that sounds different…but it’s true.
The work goes quickly. I always find shade if I have to wait…etc.
The pay is good and the margins are great.
Next…whenever I’m given a map…all dimensions should be there. I’ve never “wheeled it”.
In my experience…it’s always by the foot…per lane…per mile.
AND…we get paid from Point “A” to Point “B”.
SO…if it’s a two lane road…there’s ONE Lane Line. It that road is 1.25 miles long…then we price it for the entire 1.25 miles.
That means…right through the intersections…etc.
Here’s the thought…if I lay out and SNAP a parking lot…then go home…do I get paid…? Nope.
I should though…it was work. SO…again…the entire length of the job…even if it’s not painted…such as 4′ ON and 40′ OFF…= a 4′ “DOT”…then a 40′ “GAP”.
I get paid for the OFF section too.
I hope that make sense.
Next…often, contractors will ask for the price per mile. I give that in dollars…500.00…600.00…etc…per Lane Line, Per Mile.
Again…that’s per Lane LINE.
Again…if it’s a THREE lane road = One Lane North…One Lane South…and that One Suicide Lane in the middle…then you will probably paint the TWO Yellow Lines common to the Suicide lane…so…
…if that road is 3.9 miles…then you bid …3.9 miles TWICE.
Does that make sense?
Next…you will have a DECELERATION LANE…here and there = “Decel Lane”. I don’t worry about those. I bid the entire length “times” the number of Lane Lines.
AND…that goes for a Solid Line or a Dotted Line. Obviously the Dots cots less to produce = more margin of profit.
Next…on Temporary Striping…we do not have to do ALL work on the Temp.
We only stripe the Lane Lines…dots…decels…that’s about it. We still “kinda” lay it out…we do make it look nice.
The price is a little less…but it’s quick and margins are nice.
Next…we aren’t required to stripe Crosswalks…Stop Bars…etc. BUT…sometimes we do…just because…in this one or two jobs…here and there…it may be best.
Bid the job per lane line, per mile. Get that number.
The rest is up to you. Come down in price to get your feet in the door…etc.
Next…painting the Legends = Words…Directional Arrows…etc.
1) Again…we do not have to do these on a Temp. Sometimes I do. If ever just decided to make that ONE lane that turns RIGHT ONLY…I will probably make that “Channelizing LANE” = that ONE SOLID WHITE, 8″ wide Lane Line…solid…then hand spray a big white Right Turn Arrow. No big deal. Fun. Again…it’s all Temp. But…we do a good job.
2) But…on a Total Re-stripe…you will. ( Obviously…paint everything. )
That bidding seems too easy. If you’re a seasoned striper…you have those numbers…those costs.
( And here…we’re talking about paint…not Thermoplastic = Thermo. )
Next…on painting the “Top Course”…there may be two types of Glass beads…
One is the “regular” type.
The other may be called out. It’s a “better”
…bigger…more reflective…etc…bead. Buy those.
Next…there’s also a paint call out. In Ohio the paint could be Hot Line. It passes a certain test…etc. You’ll need to show that is what you’re using…what you bought …etc. Easy stuff. It should also be called out. No big deal.
Next…if there’s not…and it’s a smaller township just needing a bid…I just use that stuff anyway.
( I’m out of breath…well…my typing fingers are out of breath. )
Brian…bid the job. Bid it like you see it. Try to get it. It’s like anything else…your first will be a bit nerve racking…the 5th…will be fun.
( I just bid a “Wally World”…what a silly group of specs. Gimmee a road anyday. )
I hope I organized everything well enough.
I hope I didn’t skip anything.
Let me know.
AND…let me know how the first job goes.
Last…sorry for the delay. …storms…power outages…no internet…aaaggghhh…!
( I’m at Cop O Joes”…online…!)
Keep in touch.
DanJuly 13, 2012 at 11:36 pm #6471AnonymousInactive
Sorry for taking so long to reply back we have been really busy. I wanted to say thanks to both of you for your answers but Dan if you have a min i would like to pick your brain i was wondering about that road lazer you have, I was wondering how you like it and how it works on curves? Do you have the pull behind one or the truck mounted one? I am looking into purchasing one but I am hearing horror stories of why not to buy one. People are telling me not to buy one because it doesn’t have a wheel to steer the gun. I would like to know what your thoughts on this is? Also when you say you bid the roads per lane line per mile if there are two white lines one on each side of the road and yellow dash marks down the middle would we count each one as a solid line?July 14, 2012 at 6:04 am #6472
Hello Bryan…no apologies necessary…
I have the (3) pump, two color, pull behind type.
It’s a great unit.
I have a partner in that area. He’s the one who travels and stripes. I use the “ride ons” to stripe here in town…that’s all mine.
Let me get back to you on that.
On your next question…Yes.
What you’ve described is a (4) lane road…that …therefore has (3) “Lane Lines”.
I can bid 14 cents per foot. OR…I could say 700.00 per mile…( .14 x 5280 = 739.20. )…or less.
Whatever you need to do to get the job…get it.
Yes…it’s that simple.
SO…now comes the competition…from TWO places.
1) If you get 700..00 per Lane Line…someone else may say…”what are the specs?”
Bryan…if the specs are 4′ ON and 40′ OFF…holy cow…I’d take less…wouldn’t you?
2) The contractor may very well buy something to stripe that himself. He’d train a worker…that would be their job…hourly…even though it’s Prevailing Wage…the contractor would make a profit.
Those are your (2) main competitors.
That said…there are plenty of crews that mill for temporary and do not have the man power or care to stripe.
Look around. Don’t rule out a trip or two…maybe to the next county; rural roads…small townships…etc.
Next…you seem to be in a good spot to test the water. Ask a contractor or two if they’d Sub the work…for their temp striping or if they ever bid “Long Lines” for other Municipalities. It’ll get them thinking. Maybe they’ll hire you…maybe this is their “IN” to the smaller Suburbs…etc.
Bryan…you never know.
Recap…I do not see a problem with the Road Laser on curves. If I ever sell mine…I’ll let you know.
And…if you ever buy from the Great Graco…they’ll show you how.
And…yes…the entire length is a starting point. It’s the price I always get. It’s how I bid.
The selling point is this…I’m there…with the Asphalt Paving Crew. Tell me where to be and when.
Here’s the translation…when WE ALL pull away…BILL IT…right then.
New topic…if you have a Rider…Graco or Lazy Liner or Titan…you CAN temp stripe now.
The milling crew will have a Zone. They mill the “Curb Lanes” first…in a “Race Track” form. When those are done…they stop traffic…they’ll let it = traffic…”bleed out”. Then…when all cars are through…they “move” traffic to the Curb Lanes…and then Mill the “interior”.
You can stripe the Lane Lines then…and then wait until the crew is done with the Interior…laying it out as you can.
Then…when they are completely done…stripe it. Go home. Again…when they pull away…they can bill it. Milled and striped.
If you need to talk “Riders” call me. There (3) MFG’s to choose from. I’ll tell you everything.
Now…for this bottom line…
You can try to get some temp striping under your belt, now.
You can use a rider and a nice striping machine…such as:
…or ANYTHING bigger…( from these two MFGs )…but these will do the job…easily.
Bryan, I talk too much.
Let’s meet at the next Pavement Show. Rumor has it that it’s in Nashville…this February.
I’ll introduce you to a Graco guy or two.
And…if I haven’t exactly answered your questions…let me know.
( I’ll post again on my partner’s view of curves. )
DanJuly 20, 2012 at 7:48 pm #6473
Hello again, Bran.
Here’s what I have…
My unit is the (3) Pump, (2) Color Graco Road Laser…or LaZer…whichever you prefer…!
It has the “Crazy Wheel” on the back.
First…the entire unit attaches to my truck via (2) Ball Hitches. They’re 32″ apart…?…I think…I forget now.
( I always get people asking…”What do you pull?” It looks like I have a Square Dual Exhaust from the 50s on my truck. )
Then…the actual, entire unit is on that 6′ x 4’…? “Trailer”…ish…
Then…behind it is the “Crazy Wheel”.
It’s a trailer sized wheel…that is on a complete swivel thingy…that goes anywhere…any direction…anywhere…easily.
You don’t need another “steering wheel”.
SO…I’m just used to that. It does not need a driver or another “steering wheel”…etc.
NEXT…my partner had both the Crazy Wheel…and…the Skid mounted unit.
Some would cut the unit. like mine, and weld it onto a skid…or just slide it into the back of a truck…or onto a flat bed.
THEN…you would experience a need for a wheel of sorts when going around a curve. If not…the Line would “cut the corner”…and “Short” the other lane…!…aaaggghhh.
Picture one of those huge, LONG Fire Engines that has the Driver in the back to turn those rear wheels. That’s what you would need…or something, obviously, less sophisticated to turn the gun or allow it to slide toward the Center of your truck…while striping a curve…so as NOT to follow the actual truck…and therefore NOT “Short” the other, “opposing” lane.
Does that make sense? I hope I painted a clear picture. ( Get it…?…”painted” a clear picture…! )…sorry…couldn’t resist.
Anyhow…with my Crazy Wheel…I just don’t have that bad luck or trouble.
With the (2) ball hitches…the unit is forced to stay behind my truck…and NOT “trail” when I turn. The Crazy Wheel does the work.
Bottom line…check out the “Skid Mounted Units” vs. the Units like mine…Crazy Wheel Units….etc.
And…keep in mind…in the one scenario…it was a nice unit…that someone wanted to slide into or onto a truck that caused trouble.
( I’m betting Graco would not send out a unit that wouldn’t turn…or…MFG a unit without that capability. )
Bryan, thanks for the questions…I hope I helped…keep looking into roads…keep in touch.
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