July 14, 2011 at 3:57 am #5591AnonymousInactive
Hey everyone…have a question on hand rolling over old letters. My stecils are a different size that the existing lettering and the old letter are in pretty good shape. Since this is a restrip can and no new sealcoat what is my best option? Also have a queston on running curves with the striping machine. It starts a straight line and then turns into a sort of half moon to connect with other straight line. This will be my first curve and dont want to mess it up. I normally just lock the front wheels in and spray the straights. Is there much of a difference when I leave the front in the unlocked position?
When lining up on your chaulk line do you normally use the inside or outside of guard for a reference point?July 14, 2011 at 4:27 am #6388AnonymousInactive
My experience and opinion… If you decide to roll and you are using a fast dry waterborne you may need to cut it back slightly to slow the dry time. I suggest no more than a coke can of water per 5 gallon. It should keep it from drying on the roller. However I suggest that if your customer allows… to paint a nice black box over the old symbols or letters and then paint using your stencil. It will make the new marking stand out and looks good. Assuming you are on Asphalt.
My experience is that once you unlock that wheel you can tend to get a bit squirrely. Of course I am no striping artist either. And airless machines really pronounce the shaky striping. Depending on the degree of the arch I would either… 1. Keep the wheel locked and work it around the arch with your weight distribution. 2. Set the lock on the pivot wheel to in an angle appropriate for the arch.
Lastly about the chalk line. I would think it is what ever you are more comfortable with and can see best. But I will leave that to Dan’s experience.
Did you get your 2800 to stop hour-glassing?July 16, 2011 at 6:52 am #6391Girish C. Dubey, President STAR, INC.Participant
If you’re going to roll anything…I’d roll Black or a mix of Black into your White…making what ever shade of Grey you think is best. I’d use it to cover the existing numbers. Next…if you can…snap a base line along the bottom of all the stall. That way the new “black outs” will be aligned and pretty.
Then…I’d just spray my numbers on top.
Next…curves…yes…just slide the machine around the arch. BUT…perform a practice run…NOT because you need to see if you can stay on the line…BUT…you need to know if there’s any sand…or a pebble in your front tire’s way. If you hit that while forcing the striper around…it’ll slide abruptly. So…you’re actually seeing if you can make the arch…AND…if you need to remove debris from the path of the front tire. AND…when using this method…which is popular…DO NOT release the front tire. If you do…the 4″ line will lessen to 3″…etc…until it diminishes to a slit. It’s as if you’re simply swinging the gun sideways. It’ll produce a “slit” of a line.
Next…try this…unhook the gun from its cradle. Spin the horizontal bar…that holds the cradle…all the way around… until the cradle is back by the rear tire. Be careful with the gun cable. THEN re-insert the gun into its cradle. It’ll be spraying backwards as you now walk forward…as you always do. AND…it’ll almost be spraying right beside your rear tire. THEN…and only then…release the front tire and start the arch. This method will NOT allow the line width to diminish…and it does not matter how small the diameter is…you can spin circles. AND…with the gun spraying so far back…no rear tire can roll through wet paint.
NEXT…you must try this with water. Put water in the machine…spray a tight circle by releasing the front tire…while having the gun “out front”. You’ll see how the line gets very thin…narrow…very fast.
THEN…spin the arm around…you’ll love it. When I had 12 tether ball circles to stripe…it was physically easy using the “spin the arm around” method.
Next…but…it still takes some talent. SO…practice with water…then go to the job…perform a practice run…then paint slowly…because…when the front tire is free…yes…it is squirrely.. Take your time.
Next…as far as the “lock the front tire to produce a certain arch” method…the only real dimensions I’ve ever used are on a basketball court. All the rest are on a street or Drive Thru. THEN…you have to try to match the existing…what if it’s not perfect? So, now you’re back to simply Re-striping what’s there. Just set yourself to Re-stripe what’s there. Use the “force the machine around” method…or…”spin the arm around” method.
LAST…you’re right…I can see the chalk line better if the paint is on the right side. I can just see through the cables and arms…blahblah…better. That’s all. Just remember…what ever side you begin striping on…stay on that same side. DO NOT think in terms of Left and Right. Thinks in terms of North and South…or pick a landmark…such as…”I’m always going to paint on the side of the line that the landmark is on”…such as the store…or the “street” side…trust me on that one. It obviously does not matter as much on a Re-stripe or even a “Re-stripe over Seal”…but on a Layout…it’s critical. You’ll avoid having one stall measure 9’4″ and the next measure 8’8”. Does that make sense?
OK…digest all this…keep in touch.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.