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    <title type="text">PavemanPro Forums</title>
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    <updated></updated>
    <rights>Copyright (c) 2012</rights>
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    <id>tag:pavemanpro.com,2012:02:04</id>


    <entry>
      <title>Help with buying a new paver</title>
      <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.pavemanpro.com/forums/viewthread/599/" />      
      <id>tag:pavemanpro.com,2012:forums/viewthread/.599</id>
      <published>2012-02-04T08:03:38Z</published>
      <updated></updated>
      <author><name>chad</name></author>
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      <![CDATA[
        <p>I have been in the market for a new paver since November.&nbsp; I have bought used pavers over the years and have not gotten 1 that I have not had a problem with yet so I was going to try and buy a new one.&nbsp; Does any one have experience with a Gehl 1648.&nbsp; I was thinking of a gravity fed because I have found through research they are less expensive to maintain and less money to buy new.&nbsp; I have always had self propelled but I only plan on paving driveways and small parking lots.&nbsp; I also like the mauldin 1550 but wouldn&#8217;t be able to afford a new 1550.&nbsp; It seems like a salesman will tell you anything you want to hear.&nbsp; I have been on the phone alot with Lamar King at King Machinery and I can buy a used 1550 for $8,000 more than a brand new Gehl so I would appreciate some feed back.&nbsp; Thanks for your time.&nbsp; Chad Buck (Buck Bros Asphalt)
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    </entry>

    <entry>
      <title>Removing Crack Sealant from Curbs</title>
      <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.pavemanpro.com/forums/viewthread/591/" />      
      <id>tag:pavemanpro.com,2012:forums/viewthread/.591</id>
      <published>2012-01-02T13:34:35Z</published>
      <updated></updated>
      <author><name>pmisinc</name></author>
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        <p>I have a project where the crack seal material was squeegeed over on the curb and the edge is a mess and not straight.&nbsp; The client wants it removed to look straight and back off the curb.&nbsp; The contractor squeegeed it about 3 inches onto the curb.&nbsp; I would like to know how you removed excess crack seal months after it was placed.
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    </entry>

    <entry>
      <title>Whats the best paint to use when it&#8217;s cold (below the 40s)&#63;</title>
      <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.pavemanpro.com/forums/viewthread/598/" />      
      <id>tag:pavemanpro.com,2012:forums/viewthread/.598</id>
      <published>2012-01-26T04:46:01Z</published>
      <updated></updated>
      <author><name>johnnymari</name></author>
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        <p>It is now Winter and I&#8217;m getting calls for re-stripes. I did one job so far but it took almost 40 minutes for the lines to dry. What paint should I use or what can I add to it? I been using Vista&#8217;s 6900 striping paint for years. But doesn&#8217;t seem to work to good below 40 degrees. Thanks, Johnny
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    </entry>

    <entry>
      <title>Large parking lot/roadway crack filling</title>
      <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.pavemanpro.com/forums/viewthread/590/" />      
      <id>tag:pavemanpro.com,2011:forums/viewthread/.590</id>
      <published>2011-12-17T20:23:58Z</published>
      <updated></updated>
      <author><name>blue77steel</name></author>
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      <![CDATA[
        <p>I am a sealcoater who is largely residential with some commercial experience and I am still getting my feet wet with commercial work.&nbsp; My question is, how do larger contractors bid a larger parking lot with thousands of feet of cracks?&nbsp; I usually try to walk the lot and measure the majority of larger cracks, but especially if there are cars in the lot, and even with out them, its not feasible to do that after a certain point.&nbsp; Surely larger companies are not out measuring cracks in roadways and mall parking lots with a measuring wheel.&nbsp; I&#8217;ve heard of some companies charging by the pound for crackfill material, but most customers probably would want an estimate ahead of time, no?
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    </entry>

    <entry>
      <title>I still have a Wagner 2500 linecrew need parts..</title>
      <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.pavemanpro.com/forums/viewthread/597/" />      
      <id>tag:pavemanpro.com,2012:forums/viewthread/.597</id>
      <published>2012-01-26T03:59:33Z</published>
      <updated></updated>
      <author><name>johnnymari</name></author>
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        <p>I’m looking for the intake-valve for and was wanting to know if anybody might have one. What I really need is the carbon seat for it. Don’t need the piston or spring(but will take em if you have it). And does anybody even remember the 2500 Linecrew? Or I.m looking for the pump whole it can be the Wagner 1250. 2500 or the 3000. here my craigslist posting that has a few  pic so you can see what it looks like. <a href="http://www.pavemanpro.com/?URL=http%3A%2F%2Fsacramento.craigslist.org%2Fwan%2F2818711938.html">http://sacramento.craigslist.org/wan/2818711938.html</a> Thanks Johnny
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    </entry>

    <entry>
      <title>I have a Wagner 2500 linecrew need parts..</title>
      <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.pavemanpro.com/forums/viewthread/541/" />      
      <id>tag:pavemanpro.com,2011:forums/viewthread/.541</id>
      <published>2011-09-13T17:05:27Z</published>
      <updated></updated>
      <author><name>johnnymari</name></author>
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      <![CDATA[
        <p>Hi I&#8217;m new here to the forum, And first would like to say I think iy&#8217;s great. Anyway I have a wagner 2500 Linecrew. That I have been using for the past 20+ years and I love it. I have a 3400 Graco but like the wagner better. I&#8217;m looking for the intake-valve for and was wanting to know if anybody might have one. What I really need is the carbon seat for it. Don&#8217;t need the piston or spring(but will take em if you have it). And does anybody even remember the 2500 Linecrew? Thanks Johnny
</p>
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    </entry>

    <entry>
      <title>What do I need to do&#63;</title>
      <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.pavemanpro.com/forums/viewthread/592/" />      
      <id>tag:pavemanpro.com,2012:forums/viewthread/.592</id>
      <published>2012-01-09T08:55:48Z</published>
      <updated></updated>
      <author><name>gbpackrfan</name></author>
      <content type="html">
      <![CDATA[
        <p>Hey guys,<br />
 I&#8217;m thinking about starting to striping/parking lot maintenance.<br />
What do I need to do Legally before I can start striping?</p>

<p>Any help would be great!</p>

<p>-jake
</p>
      ]]>
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    </entry>

    <entry>
      <title>Properly treating wide cracks</title>
      <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.pavemanpro.com/forums/viewthread/352/" />      
      <id>tag:pavemanpro.com,2011:forums/viewthread/.352</id>
      <published>2011-05-23T09:43:32Z</published>
      <updated></updated>
      <author><name>arrowheadseal</name></author>
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      <![CDATA[
        <p>My question has to do with properly treating wide cracks in asphalt.&nbsp; I have an upcoming job where the cracks are 3/4&#8221; and an inch deep.&nbsp; I know that filing the entire void with rubberized crack filler is not the correct solution.&nbsp; What I am looking for is a product or &#8220;trick&#8221; to assist in properly filling the majority of the void prior to treating the crack.&nbsp;  Is using sand or filler rope recommended?</p>

<p>Also, I was also asked to treat cracks on a tennis court.&nbsp; The customer requested hot pour rubberized crack-filler.&nbsp; I&#8217;m a little hesitant because I worry the product will come up and track all over the surface under high heat and aggressive foot traffic. any suggestions. </p>

<p>Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.</p>

<p>Thank you,<br />
Chad
</p>
      ]]>
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    </entry>

    <entry>
      <title>using a hotbox and/or reclaimer</title>
      <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.pavemanpro.com/forums/viewthread/589/" />      
      <id>tag:pavemanpro.com,2011:forums/viewthread/.589</id>
      <published>2011-12-17T20:12:49Z</published>
      <updated></updated>
      <author><name>blue77steel</name></author>
      <content type="html">
      <![CDATA[
        <p>I am a sealcoater who is trying to break in to the asphalt repair &#8220;game&#8221; and am considering purchasing hot box or a reclaimer with an infrared heater.&nbsp; Before purchasing one of these I am trying to do my homework and I have been talking to a few asphalt plants in the area.&nbsp; My problem is, when I have talked to them about using a hot box or the like, they make it sound like it will not work or that it would be to small of a &#8220;target&#8221;, as they drop asphalt from an elevated hopper (as is probably standard procedure).&nbsp; They have even balked at putting asphalt into a 1 ton dump.&nbsp; I don&#8217;t want to buy this equipment if I cant use it.&nbsp; I could imagine if cold millings are being used, they would be loaded by a bobcat or something, which would be a diff. story, but as far as hot mix i&#8217;m not sure if they are just unfamiliar with the equipment or what.&nbsp; Help!
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    </entry>

    <entry>
      <title>Got paid to practice&#45;lucky me</title>
      <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.pavemanpro.com/forums/viewthread/588/" />      
      <id>tag:pavemanpro.com,2011:forums/viewthread/.588</id>
      <published>2011-12-16T20:26:14Z</published>
      <updated></updated>
      <author><name>stripe guy 2</name></author>
      <content type="html">
      <![CDATA[
        <p>I received a call yesterday, a company wanted a lot striped today for overflow parking during the holidays.&nbsp; It did not have to be done well, just get it done, NOW.&nbsp; It was a cool day, a jacket was needed, with no sunshine and nearly raining, over 80% humidity.&nbsp; I was to start a new layout after lunch,&nbsp; and paint 3 double rows of parking and be gone before dark.</p>

<p>I am luck that I had Dans&#8217; book &#8220;How I Stripe a Parking Lot&#8221;&nbsp; because I had never needed to stripe to a long rope before it was a method I had never practiced.&nbsp; I made some errors, but I learned a lot, and can do it correctly the next time, thankfully the book to get me started.&nbsp; Just could not have done this using a chalk line.</p>

<p>I was also lucky in that I had some of the Professional Paving MX paint on hand.&nbsp; I considered looking for some Alkyd paint, because I was very worried about the drying time in the cool damp weather, but it dried probably within 15 minutes to no track.&nbsp; I seldom paint  when a jacket is needed.
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